Mahaguthi, Tulsi Mehar and a lost Owl.

Mahaguthi ‘Craft with a Conscience’ has the most interesting history of all the fair trade groups in Nepal. I had read about their work many years ago and had always wanted to work with them. I want to give a bit about their history because i think it sums up much of what fair trade is about. It was started by the legendary social reformer Tulsi Mehar in 1923. In the early 20th century Nepal had a very rigid caste and social structure, only the high caste men were educated and literate. Mehar campaigned against this inequality and for his vocal anti-establishment ideas he was thrown out of Nepal by the Nepalese Rana government and ended up exiled in India. His search for truth and equality led him to Mahatma Gandhi and they worked together for many years. His time with Gandhi gave him an opportunity to gain insight to the liberation of the underprivileged. In a system where there are no opportunities for women to bring in money for themselves they must rely on their husbands and fathers. Without the means to improve their own lives women’s situations can be very restrictive and this can be hugely problematic if there is domestic violence or abuse. Mehar and Gandhi’s vision for reform was to empower women through education and income generation projects so that they can become economically self-reliant. Gandhi wrote to the Prime Minister of Nepal to ask him to let Mehar back into the country. Once back in Kathmandu in 1923 and with a donation from Gandhi, Mehar set up the spinning and weaving develop
ment project that became Mahaguthi. It was not only the first social development project in Nepal but was actually among the first ever manufacturing units in the economically closed feudal country.
Mahaguthi currently takes on 90 new women annually (most are widows or victims of domestic abuse) to train them in literacy and employable skills and school their children as well as supporting a hospital.

 

I have written and illustrated a children’s book ‘A Bit Lost’ with Borim Press and Walker books and I had the idea to create a small fair trade soft toy to sell along with the book that could be entirely made from scratch by the women at Mahaguthi. The toy is entirely made from raw cotton, using all the traditional cottage industry techniques that Gandhi made famous. It is hand-spun into yarn, dyed, hand-woven and finally sewn all by the women at Mahaguthi.
 
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Gandhi and Tulsi Mehar Shresta

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The women in the womens shelter learn to spin and weave and the profits from their crafts are used to support and educate themselves and their children as well as supporting a hospital
 
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Some of the children of the women from Mahaguthi’s women’s shelter
 
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Some of the younger children can’t read their names yet. Interesting system
 
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Some of the women employed at Mahaguthi are deaf or disabled. This is the sign you do when you take Monday off…..’Im outta here. Peace’

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a few images from the classroom

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this guy is having a really bad banana. not nice.

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…..storytime ……YAY!
 
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This is the small hospital funded by Mahaguthi’s profits, you can see the portraits of Gandhi and Mehar
 
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This is their ambulance believe it or not. Ambulances come in interesting shapes and sizes in Nepal. And colours!
 
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The front cover of the book
 
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Some owl designs. I wanted to try some different options with the stitching. I needed to make the owl a little flat so that it can still pack together with the book. I think it would sell best as a gift idea together with the book rather than as a separate item.
 
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Weaving
 
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Sewing and designing the first prototypes with Chandrigarh
 
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All the Ullu’s! The Hindi word for ‘owl’ is ‘ullu’ which is also the word you use if you want to call someone stupid. Owls are thought of as stupid in India and Nepal, the opposite to how they are seen in the west. My owl is definitely a Nepali ‘ullu’ rather than a western owl. Actually I have become known as ullu-man in the Mahaguthi office (!).Thanks very much to Sumitra, Anita, Chandigarh and Uttara (also to Ono and Sunil who arent here)

*UPDATE* they are now available from my new shop here

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Kumbeshwar Technical School Carpets

Through People Tree I was introduced to the really excellent Kumbeshwar Technical School I posted about them a little earlier here. Like Mahaguthi they support and train lower caste women and also men. They also support a large school of 260 and an orphanage of 19 children. I have been having exhibitions of my digital illustration work from time to time, i have been converting the files to screens and screen printing them or simply printing them digitally.
I saw the opportunity to collaborate with KTS. They make these amazing natural hand-spun Tibetan wool carpets. The carpet making process is quite similar to the pixel make up of digital images so as many of my images are quite flat with few colours so I had the idea of producing some of my designs as carpets. Together with Satyendra and the design team we found a way to covert digital images directly to carpet graphs which will hopefully make the design process a little easier.
Im really excited about the possibilites with designing carpets though, could be great.
 
 
UPDATE……………………………….
I have just set up a new website for these carpets
to view and order please take a look at
 
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Technical training for the adults. KTS have a facility to produce knitware, carpets and also furniture, and they provide training to their workers
 
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From their profits they also fund a school of 260…
 
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…and an orphanage of 19 children
 
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The first test grid i made digitally (i managed to mess up and specify C31 (beige) instead of C30 (black)…. Chris you idiot!!!! 
 
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it worked ok though!
 
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some details in production
 
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and some designs ……more to come
 
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I will post more about this soon when the first batch of carpets comes through.
If you want to order or enquire about a carpet please mail me …..chris (at) vegetablefriedrice (dot) com
 
By |2020-05-13T12:50:05+00:00August 6th, 2010|Tags: , , , , |2 Comments

Getting involved with Fair Trade: some information for designers

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Some people have mailed me to ask how I got in contact with the Fair Trade groups etc so i thought I should explain it a bit here.

 

There is two main certification marks that govern fair trade. The first is the FLO mark on the left above, it oversees commodities such as coffee/tea/fruit and is the most widely recognised. The second is the WFTO mark which oversees the more complex fair trade manufacturing certification. Clothing/stationery/handicrafts any manufactured goods etc all come under this mark so it is the place to go for designers looking to create and manufacture designs and products.
 
I always wonder why it is the Fair Trade raw commodity mark is so widely recognised but the Fair Trade manufacturing mark isn’t as well known. Mainly perhaps because the Fair Trade raw commodity mark products can sell themselves without much help from design (coffee, tea etc need nothing more than a packet) but fair trade manufactured products aren’t as easy because they heavily rely on design. There are great companies such as People Tree that are doing their bit to show that its possible to do great designs in fair trade, but in general I think its clear that there still isn’t enough great design. Why isn’t it everywhere?  More than 50% of coffee sold in the UK is fair trade and still rapidly growing but in clothing it is less than one percent. If there were more it would be a huge force in poverty reduction and the main thing I see holding it back is design.
 
Having worked myself in advertising and commercial design for a long time I had become very disillusioned in the world and business of design, and I am very grateful to the people I have met in Fair Trade who have reminded me again what good design can be. There are some amazing traditional crafts and hand made objects that just cannot be produced industrially that lend themselves if designed nicely to really beautiful high-end design products. Textile designers in particular would be blown away. Not only that but I have met some pretty amazing and inspiring people. It has been a great opportunity for me to take some time to do something a bit different that is generated by myself rather than commissioned and it has led my design work into lots of new and unexpected directions.
 
For anyone who is thinking about getting involved they can go straight to the WFTO website here and contact producer groups all over the world by region/country or by product type. Literally anything you can think of (that can be non-industrially manufactured) can be made somewhere by some co-operative. You can also join them on facebook here 
If you have any other questions please leave a comment below.
 
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Some amazing hand-woven fabric swatches from ACP. The craftsmanship and work here is just mind-blowing. The stuff you could do with this….!
 
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Even just very simple screen prints work so well on hand-woven fabrics
 
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bag prints…
 
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and some soft toys.
 
By |2020-05-13T12:50:05+00:00July 5th, 2010|Tags: , , , |0 Comments

Kathmandu University Illustration Workshop

These are some of the images from the illustrators at my workshop at Kathmandu University. We combined images from Nepali folk stories and legends with other images to create new ways of telling the stories. Thanks very much to all the students at KU. The standard of work was really very high.

You can read more about it here

the images below are by (top to bottom) Sadhana Poudel, Aditya and Kanchan Burathoki

read the photo.circle post about it here 

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By |2020-05-13T12:50:05+00:00May 7th, 2010|Tags: , , |0 Comments

Interview for PIVOT Dublin Feb 2012

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Chris Haughton was listed in Time magazine’s ‘DESIGN 100’ for the work he has been doing for fair trade clothing company People Tree. He has co-founded Node a fair trade company to create rugs in Nepal. He also writes  children’s books ‘A Bit Lost’ is about a lost owl and ‘Oh No, George!’ about a bad dog.
 
What did you do?
 
Together with Akshay Sthapit I set up NODE a fair trade rug making project in Nepal last year. The aim is to connect designers with third world craftspeople, help people out of poverty and support their development projects and make some nice rugs at the same time. 
 
Why did you set up this Initiative? 

I had been working with fair trade for the past seven years in London, and i admired the development work that fair trade was doing and wanted to get more involved. I took 8 months off to visit India and Nepal and see if i could create something together directly with the producers. I travelled around to see what could be made in fair trade that would best use design together with craft. The main reason I set it up was to help out the development project, their crafts are of very high standard but the design is not at the same level and so it made sense to rope my designer friends into this too. As it turned out there were plenty of things that we could work on and this has develope

d into much larger projects than i had first envisioned. 
 
What is your role in the network of makers, producers, sellers etc?

I noticed that there was an opportunity when I posted images of the rugs on my blog. People from all over the place emailed to enquire about buying them and as my blog is followed by many designers  people also wanted to ask if they could design their own one. I spent a frustrating year unable to do anything as i didn’t have the facility to receive payment for customers and at the same time the complex bank charges/import duties and logistics made it prohibitive for other designers to order single rugs and have them shipped. I spoke about this to my nepalese friends and

Akshay who specialises in logistics and imports solved it. 
I have hosted exhibitions to launch our rugs and got the Design Museum stocking us. We hope to connect more designers and do a large exhibition in the Design Museum London shop later in the year. I am trying to steer clear of organising as i am more of a designer and am currently looking for someone to ideally take over this role. Im very happy to oversee it and get paid for the work i have done to help it to work but i am not interested in making money from this project.
 
What do you think is the value for producers? for customers?
 
The makers are unskilled, mainly illiterate adults who are from the lowest caste in Nepalese society. working for Kumbeshwar and NODE provides them with a way out of their situation and provides enough work and free schooling so that they can afford to send their children to school. There is no social welfare in Nepal so the poor are in a very precarious position and this gives a way for themselves and their children to be educated. Profits generated support a school of 240 and an orphanage of 19.
For customers the chance of owning or creating unique traditional nepalese handwoven rugs with unique designs. We are working with some of the worlds best designers and illustrators and are creating some very unique and beautiful rug designs. The Design Museum in London has been stocking us and is keen to host future events. Nepalese carpet making is world famous and is of very high quality so it makes sense to have great designers work together with the craftspeople to make valuable lasting items.
 
How do you think the production / distribution networks that supply our cities might change in the next decade?
 
The way we have been consuming has been radically changing in the last few decades and our retailers have been growing longer arms and sourcing products and manufacturing further and further away and so our shopping experience is more and more mediated. Consumers need to react to these developments, the social and environmental effects of these changes are very big and need to be addressed. Interesting experiments include the peoples supermarket in london which runs like a co-operative, their stock is almost entirely fair trade or locally sourced with a lot of thought going into best practises. their workers are volunteers from the local community and work for a few hours a month to become a member. It is seeing some real success and a second branch now opening. Some of the the new economics foundation’s projects are excellent. There is also ‘fair tracing’ an academic project to use QR codes and other IT technology to better show the sourcing of produce at the point of sale sounds to me like it could have huge potential for really changing consumer habits, although as far as i am aware there has been (understandable!) resistance and it has been stalling. Any technology that can help the great transparency of the internet reach the shady supply chains of our supermarkets i think would be very exciting
 
 
By |2020-05-13T12:50:06+00:00February 13th, 2009|Tags: , , , |0 Comments

Interview with Fast Company: Jenara Nerenberg August 2010

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Are books and toys the future of fair trade?
 
I dont know if its the future of fair trade but it makes a nice gift!  Every part of the little owl made from scratch from raw cotton, it is hand-spun, dyed, woven and sewn all by the women from a womens shelter. It is helping to provide the income to support 90 new women per year and their children, as well as supporting their literacy training and educating their children. Mahaguthi, the fair trade company that makes the toys was actually set up with a donation from Gandhi eighty years ago and has a really fascinating history. One of the things i love about the toys is that each owl is slightly different and each one has a different (worried!) expression on its face which just isn’t possible with industrial manufacture. Its just a more meaningful gift as it benefits people who need a hand and has this nice story behind it.
 
 
How did you get involved with PeopleTree?
 
I was friends with a designer who was designing the clothes for People Tree around seven years ago. She had told me about the way the company was set up and I wanted to get involved. Initially I volunteered some designs to produce a line of children’s clothing, i designed some little animal prints for cute little t-shirts and bibs and they sold really well so i was asked to do more. Then we did some adult tees and stationery. In the end I have done a whole range of things for them and i sort of ended up branding the company by default.
 
 
So tell me, why has the bulk of your work been carried out in Asia? 
 
My illustration work is quite popular in Japan and Korea and I seem to get a lot of commissions from there. People Tree was actually started in Japan, and also my picture book was first published in Korean when it was picked up at a book fair. Also this year i have spent 8 months developing products in India and Nepal. I’m not sure why I have been so centred around Asia. Maybe it’s just co-incidence or maybe because of the lovely food.
 
 
What role do young designers like yourself play in changing social norms in the design field at large? 
 
I think that design will have to pay more attention to things other than surface or aesthetic appeal. As I see it, design right now (especially graphic design) is more part of the problem than the solution. I had become very disillusioned in design because i had been working in a very superficial way. I think many designers feel this and there is a growing movement of designers who are thinking more seriously about design, but not nearly enough is happening right now. I think the most effective thing to do as a designer is to try to create or instigate projects from the very start. Otherwise graphic artists and designers tend to get hired right at the end of a (usually!) ill-conceived project and our work is just simply tacked on to ‘make it look nice’.
 
 
What’s next for you?
 
I have developed some products working with four different fair trade groups in Nepal and I hope to find distribution now in London. The one im most excited about is producing rugs with KTS, an adults technical school that supports an orphanage. I realised we can create rugs from digital images where each pixel corresponds to a carpet knot. They produce the most amazing hand knotted rugs from tibetan wool. We have produced some test rugs and I hope to have an exhibition in London soon and perhaps also sell the designs from my website.
I also have two more childrens books in the pipeline. One is about a bad dog!
 
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By |2020-05-13T12:50:06+00:00February 11th, 2009|Tags: , , , |0 Comments
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